Italy - Charging the Batteries 2025-06-11

We have really enjoyed everyone coming to visit us in Florence. Dave & Kim have departed for Portugal and we will miss their company.

We took today to grocery shop, do laundry and basically do what we would do in the States on a regular day. For me, this included getting my nails done. The shop I found is close by and the ladies are very nice. They do an excellent job and it is HALF what I pay in the States.

This finish is called 'cat eye'. It is created using a gel polish with metal particles. The magic happens when a magnet is used to shift the metal around in the polish, creating a shimmer effect. I totally enjoyed having this finish for almost the entirety of our trip.

Sadly, they don't have this type of finish at the two places I frequent at home, so I guess I'll just have to go back on the regular...😜

Italy - Slow Day 2025-06-10

 

This lovely statue is in a turnabout in between our and Dave and Kim's neighborhoods

After all the excitement, contract extensions and bonuses (yesterday's anniversary), it was time to slow down just a little.  It's our last day with Dave and Kim so we decided to meet and explore the Galileo Museum. It's small, but mighty. It's also handy to have someone who has knowledge of science to help further explain some of the items in this museum. JR and I have been to this museum before, but I always see something new or an old favorite from a different angle.

We arrived at the museum an hour before close for pausa. We decided to go anyway as we felt like you could see everything, not necessarily in depth, but be able to enjoy your particular favorite areas. 

After the whirlwind tour, we decided a sit down with snackies sounded like a good idea. We also wanted to show Dave and Kim the Biblioteca delle Oblate. What tops enjoying Italy, our friends, an aperitivo (or two) and a stunning view of the Duomo? Well, nothing really. Our time with Dave and Kim, getting to know them IRL and share common interests was amazing and we are so grateful they took time to come play with us in one of our favorite places. This will not be the last in person 'meating'. 

On our walk home, we passed by a church we had not yet seen. AND it is Episcopal; a rarity here. As with all the churches, it's stunning but we sadly couldn't check out the inside. Here's some history of this church which was all new info to me (Stacey).

The city of Florence did not permit the presence of non-Catholic churches until after the exile of the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Leopold II of Lorraine, in 1849 on the heels of the 1848 uprisings. The Tuscan parliament then passed legislation permitting churches of other denominations. Around 1850 a handful of American Episcopalians began to meet as a church. St. James became an official parish in 1867.

Our church was the last work of an English architect prominent in the Gothic Revival movement of the late nineteenth century. The land was purchased in 1907 for $12,822. Church construction, the organ, and other furnishings totaled $66,556. More than half of the total funds were contributed by Edward Francis Searles. J. Pierpont Morgan donated $10,000 after church representatives approached him, encouraged by his generosity to the Episcopal Church in Rome and his purchase of land for the Episcopal church of St. Paul’s Within the Walls. After examining the architect’s plans, Morgan found the building plans “inadequate” and requested more elaborate plans. When these were produced, so was his gift.

The church closed during World War II and suffered no heavy damage. It reopened in 1947 in an era when the American community in Florence included Bernard Berenson, Sinclair Lewis, and the M.I.T. inventor Philip Baldwin.

On November 3 and 4, 1966, the Arno River flooded its banks and rose to a height of twelve feet in and around many of Florence’s most important museums and monuments, wreaking devastating damage. Water and fuel oil flooded the undercroft and reached the windowsills of the rectory. St. James parishioners wrote to their friends in America for help. In three months, the parish raised $425,000 for relief. The vestry, in cooperation with the British government, created an agency to support each request, providing a weekly grant of $35 per family.

And of course, street art:

Italy - 30th Anniversary 2025-06-09

 30 years and counting.  Cinque Terre, Via dell'amore

Cinque Terre is a region in Livorno that stretches from Riomaggiore, to Manarola  to Corniglia to Vernazza to Monterosso; 5 Towns. As Cinque Terre is a National Park, you must have procure a pass to do any walking/hiking. There are a ton of trails from 'that wasn't too bad' to 'holy crap why did I agree to this'. If you want to traverse the Via dell'amore, there is an additional fee and a timed entry. You can also tack on unlimited train rides between La Spezia (where we needed to change trains) to Livorno (farther north). Since it was our anniversary, we bought the 'whole shebang' tickets.

Via dell'amore is a paved, wide trail that starts at Riomaggiore and ends in Manarolo and is not quite 1km. It had been closed for about 20 years due to the mudslides the region periodically experiences. They've done a great job showing off the expanse of the coast and also the ability to see other towns. They also spent time curating interesting things to see along the way.

The shoreline:

A memorial:

An art display:

Via dell'amore is certainly a romantic spot and it also includes a fence full of locks people have left to declare their love - this says loosely - don't touch, it might kill you. I'm so glad it didn't kill anyone and there really are some fantastically beautiful dedications.

The via dell'amore leads you to the train station - handy! - where they are making repairs to the shoreline all via helicopter with small buckets.  That is Corniglio in the background of this first shot.

Because helicopters are cool!

We waited for the train and went to our afternoon destination - Bagni Stella Marina at Monterosso Al Mare.  Janiece and Terry may recognize this as the place we put in for kayaking last time we were here. This is a cross between sand and small pebble rock.  Again, we rented an umbrella and two chaise lounge for about 30euro for the day. There was a small food selection and plenty of beverages to appeal to a wide variety. This is a serve yourself establishment. The restrooms and changing rooms were clean and we had a fab time reading, drinking and eating our way through the afternoon.

The two notable pieces of art and architecture at the point of Monterosso. 

Building art:

The free beach:

After we had our fill of beach, we looked around for a restaurant that suited our palate. We decided that since we still needed to take a train to La Spezia to catch our train home, that we felt like exploring La Spezia and their fare which is very close to the train station so we wouldn't have to rush.

As usual, public art is abundant.

We found a great restaurant and enjoyed a lovely meal and beverages along with Tiramisu for JR and a pistachio affogato (ice cream and espresso) for me.

We spent time talking about the last 30 years and what we hoped the next 30 (hopefully) will bring. We decided we still liked each other, so we signed our extensions rather than go for free agency. After a very satiating dinner, we boarded our train to head back for Florence, full of fun, sun, love and contentment.

Italy - Lazy Days 2025-06-08

It's been so great having Dave and Kim along with us. Tomorrow we go on a special day trip. However, today JR and I took it easy. To see what Dave and Kim did, check out his blog. Then JR made chicken parmigiana which we all partook with abandon. A selection of torte from a local pasticceria rounded out a perfect evening of fellowship and food. We also tried an Italian red version of 'two buck chuck' - the bottle was 2euro at the grocery. It was quite good.

 OH, and Jannik Sinner won his match and Dave and Kim were kind enough to let it play out on mute while we were doing aperitivi.

Italy - Sharing is Caring 2025-06-07

This headline cracked me up; the Italians weren't playing around and had some unsavory things to say about the current White House occupants -  

Dave, Kim and I met in the morning for an excursion to Lucca. This would be their longest train ride to do a day trip. It's about an hour and a half. JR and I loved Lucca when we went and wanted to share the magic. JR needed a down day, so he stayed in Firenze and rest, red and created art.

We arrived on Market day, so there were numerous tents offering yummy treats and they are not shy about 'making' you try some. We had a great time sampling cheese and meats and sweet treats.

We stopped at Chiesa di San Giusto who participated in the Church Jubilee this year. As always, churches are a great place to see history and some very lovely pieces of art.

We walked our way through town to Piazza dell'Anfiteatro, which was built over the second century amphitheater ruins. It retained it's oval shape and is truly beautiful. We decided to stop here for lunch.

    

Before lunch, as we were wandering the streets, we came upon an art exhibit - Beyond Photography, A Journey into the Heart of Humanity by Stefano Lotumolo that used Chiesa di San Cristoforo as it's backdrop. A very  moving exhibition about the human condition, culture and societal norms. A few of my favorites are captured below.

At some point in the day, we stumbled upon a group of singers who were having lunch and entertaining the crowds.  They were fantastic and it was just so...Italian

Lucca is a walled city and as we mentioned in an earlier post, the top of the berm-like walls are for pedestrian and bicycle traffic. The views inside the walls is spectacular. What we learned was that apparently they do let groups - we're assuming by permit - ride their Harley Davidson's in celebration of well, whatever they celebrate. It was stunning to see and hear almost/over 100 motorcycles parade in front of the museum on the wall, about the wall. Later, we caught  up to them at the ice cream/snack shop.

In order to reach the wall, there are several entrances. We decided to explore this one. It took us outside the wall, but not 'up' the wall, so we retraced our steps to the path next to it which gave us access.

And of course, street art

A lovely time was had by all.  The train ride back was a welcome rest whereafter we went to our respective homes, had a lay down and shower, and then met back up again - all 4 of us - for a chinese dinner and some gelato. What a great day.